Coffee and carrot go right in the bin, and sometimes into the worm bin [shown later]. the citrus and wheat [grown on a thin layer of soil] require shredding as shown below to achieve rapid composting:
The usefulness of shredding includes volume reduction as well as more surface exposure.
This wheelbarrow contains all the ivy that filled the barrow 3 times before it was shredded:
Things that aren't shredded are roughly chopped
with a home made "cleaver"
The material is layered into the bin, and covered with older more finished material as a 'bacterial starter',
then covered with the drier wheat root material
When the material is added along with chopped veg scrap, the mix is more varied and heats faster
and if 'sectioned' down one side, the progressive decomposition can be seen:
< sectioned >
When turned, the heat is evident, as well as the Actinobacteria activity causing the powdery white 'fungal' material:
The fungal-like bacterial growth is most evident on the coarser high-carbon materials:
With food waste a good helping of carbon rich material is necessary, both to balance the higher nitrogen and absorb the high liquid content of the fruit and veggies, which can be 60-80% moisture - shredded paper is a good carbon source, but gets saturated quickly and mats - dry coarse sawdust is great for it's moisture retention, helping to prevent nutrient loss from leaching, and it maintains a good structure to the pile for air infiltration - also useful are the screened out coarse materials from previously finished compost, which 'recycles' the sawdust that didn't break down the first time
When doing a large volume of material, the bin is filled in 4-6 days,
and after the first turning it then goes into the 'tumbler',
shown here, along with finishing steps.
The new concrete apron in front:
makes winter composting easier!
The bins are sitting on loose laid red brick, to prevent rodents digging under.
The Worm Bin
Last year I rebuilt the bin I've been keeping worms in, expanding it to use for "finishing" some of the compost
The harvest from the old bin:
The new bin, 'charged' with the worms saved
which can be seen here when 'disturbed':
As an experiment to encourage more activity during the winter, the bottom of the bin was covered with wheat grass root mats, and then once the bin was filled, a layer of the wheat was layed on top - as seen in the last picture, they seem to like it!
The pipe framed bin was set on dry-fit used brick to provide drainage and slow the invasion of roots from the aggressive ivy hedge behind it. The wire mesh sides of the bin were lined with heavy water resistant box board to maintain the air space between the mesh and the exterior plywood sides of the bin for some winter insulation - if necessary it can be replaced next year when the bin is harvested, but it may last 2 years ..... spring 2007: the boxboard will be good for a number of years more!
Added an initial charge of aged shredded plant trash from last fall.
Finished hot compost to be added over time after the worms are moved in.
Another resource for the dedicated scrounger is eggshell - any cafe that does a good breakfast trade has lots!!
One local cafe can fill a 4 gallon pail in one morning:
I collected well over 100 lbs [dried] in less than a year.
The shells are rinsed and spread on trays and placed in my convection oven with only the pilot light on,
24 hours later, they're 'scrunched' by hand, then rolled to a fine consistency.
Eggshell is useful as a soil calcium additive which is slow acting and long lasting - also as a good 'grit' addition to the worm bin, which benefits from the calcium - and a real good grit and calcium supplement for yer chickens!
Make good use of all the local resources free for the taking!
... back to composting 101 ... to the digester ... weblinks on composting ... The Cider Press Home
with a home made "cleaver"
< sectioned >
makes winter composting easier!
The new bin, 'charged' with the worms saved 
Added an initial charge of aged shredded plant trash from last fall.
